Travel Budget for Humahuaca

Humahuaca On a Budget

Located in the northwest region of Argentina, Humahuaca is a town nearly 3000m high in elevation, found on the border of the rio Grande. It is the largest settlement with the biggest population along the famous quebrada de Humahuaca gorge, but it has managed to keep its authenticity with its cobblestoned streets, adobe houses, quaint plazas filled with inhabitants of Andean traits and handicraft shops. If you have the chance to visit Humahuaca in February, during the carnival, you will appreciate how traditions are kept alive in this part of Argentina. Humahuaca has become a popular tourist destination in Argentina because of its beautiful setting next to the spectacular Serranía de Hornocal (colored mountains). While most visitors rapidly make their way through Humahuaca before continuing to the other two main Quebrada towns, Pumamarca and Tilcara, some enjoy spending a night or two there. Indeed, the town offers a perfect starting point to visit the region and has a few interesting landmarks not to miss, such as the historic church and Soto Avendano's Independence Monument. If you decide to stay in Humahuaca, remember that nights get chilly and ask the tourist office for any information (in the Cabildo, on the main square, opened Monday to Friday from 7h to 21h and Saturday from 9h to 12h and 13h to 16h and only Sunday mornings).

Sights

The small square of Humahuaca is constantly animated and filled with small stalls held by locals selling sweaters and hats made out of llama wool, jewelry, mate cups… You will also find the Iglesia de la Candelaria, a modest and simple church built in 1642 for the village and which has been transformed during the years. Notice its door in cactus wood veneer and the paintings on the walls from Marco Sapaca, an artist from the school of Cuzco, of the XVIII century. The Cabildo is another interesting monument you will see on the Plaza Central of Humahuaca. Its bell rings everyday at midday to bless the town. Next to the Plaza Central is also the Monumento a la Independencia. Whether you like the architecture of this massive monument built in 1950 by Ernesto Soto Avendaño, the spectacular panorama on the surrounding mountains, especially at sunset, is worth climbing up the stairs.

Activities

The Museo Folclorico Regional (USD$2, opened every day except on Sunday between 10h and 17h) is a small museum in which writer and ethnologist, Sixto Vazquez Zuleta has reunited all the traditional Indian objects he has been collecting throughout his life. From geology to traditions, costumes, medicine, music instruments, celebrations, sorcery and many more aspects of their lives are exposed in this museum.

About 40 minutes away from Humahuaca is the Hornocal, also called cerro de los 14 colores (the hill of 14 colors). A taxi for 2 to 4 people will be about USD$27 and a taxi for 8 people will charge you about USD$43. The entry fee is USD$2 and parking is free. Make sure you go there with sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat, a windbreaker and healthy lungs! Although you only have a 10 minute walk from the parking to get down to the panoramic view on the beautiful colored mountains that witness of the geological past of this south-Andean part rich in copper, iron, and sulfur, you will be at an altitude of 4 350m. Count 20 minutes to climb back up to the parking and if the high altitude is difficult for you, buy some coca leaves to chew on the market of the main square or at a pharmacy.

If you are ready for more adventure, you can leave for a day to Iruya, a small village of 4 600 inhabitants built in 1752 on a hill 2780m high in altitude. You can reach Iruya by car - 70 km northeast of Humahuaca, including 20 km on ruta 9 and 50 km on a dirt track that goes up and down and will leave you completely dazzled by the view. A bus company named Transporte Iruya also leaves three times every morning and waits 3 hours in Iruya before bringing you back to Humahuaca in the afternoon (the bus does not leave if it rains).

Food and Dining

There are plenty of restaurants to choose from in Humahuaca but only a few dishes available. Most restaurants serve local and traditional food including milanesa, napolitana, picante de pollo, cazuelas, tamales, humitas and locros. There are also plenty of restaurants that offer empanadas as an affordable option. You must try the llama meat, an Andean specialty. There are also a couple of bars in town where you can buy a beer and relax with fellow travelers while listening to a folkloric music band.

Transportation

You can reach this town by bus with a handful of different companies. It is recommended to buy your tickets one day in advance during high season. From Buenos Aires, your journey will last about 24 hours and cost around USD$150. From Tilcara, the journey is about 40 minutes and costs USD$3. The Northwest of Argentina is also a nice region to visit with your own car, as it gives you more flexibility and autonomy in how you plan your days. It is very easy to rent a car in the bigger cities near Humahuaca such as Salta or San Salvador de Jujuy. You can then visit the region in a few days, stopping around small towns and getting a sense of the local life around the Province of Jujuy.